You may have seen it around, but not know that this technique had a name! I certainly didn’t until Robin finished her tapestry weaving pictured below:
Whitewater Draw Refuge – Bisbee, Arizona
“We saw thousands of Sandhill Cranes coming into the draw to roost at sunset. These are a few of them.”
Weave Structure: Theo Moorman inlay
Warp: 8/2 cotton with sewing thread supplementary warp.
Weft: 8/2 and 20/2 cotton doubled in order to do clasp weave for the sunsets; the pattern weft black silk and multicolored ribbon.
Robin had some leftover warp from this beautiful project and invited other members to try out this technique. I happened to be in between projects so this was the perfect opportunity to try something outside of my comfort zone.
Most of the weaving I’m drawn to doesn’t usually involve tapestry, so it’s an unfamiliar world. This particular technique is something I’ve seen around the studio, and I was drawn to the possibilities.
Now, you might be wondering, “Who’s Theo Moorman, and what’s so special about this technique?”
Theo Moorman (1907-1990) Was a British weaver who is known for inventing and popularizing this technique. She mentions in her book, Weaving as an Art Form, that the technique is ‘so simple that [she] hesitate[s] to claim it as a discovery.’1 She has extensive experience that includes textile design for the industry, research, woven art pieces, and education. Her own body of work pushes the boundaries of a set warp and weft into the three dimensional space, and the weavings that use this technique convey such a beautiful transparency and careful layering of colors. I could try to write about it all day but I highly recommend that you take a look at her works and see for yourself!
This inlay technique uses a warp of combined thick and thin warp threads, so that the thicker yarns create a solid ground, while the thinner warp ties down the supplementary wefts without distorting the fabric. Theo has written detailed instructions that explain how it works and how you can achieve the same results. She even has several exercises in her book that lets the weaver experiment and play with the possibilities of this technique.
If you’re interested in learning more about this technique, here are a couple of places you can start:
Weaving as an Art Form by Theo Moorman – This is a book written by the woman herself, and includes more about her experience as well as instruction on weaving with the Moorman technique.
Weaving that Sings, Variations on the Theo Moorman Technique by Joyce Harter and Nadine Sanders – This is the book that I referenced when teaching myself to weave with this technique. It goes over the technique as well as provides variations to try with the technique.
More on Moorman: Theo Moorman Inlay Adapted to Clothing by Heather Lyn Winslow – This one is a great book that takes a look at the inlay technique through the lens of fashion design.
Theo Moorman 1907-1990 Her Life and Work as an Artist Weaver by Hilary Diaper – While photos can never hold a candle to seeing the real deal, this book has a photographed collection of Moorman’s work as an artist weaver.
(By the way, these are all available to borrow at the studio library!)
I’ve usually focused on projects with a practical end product, but Robin’s beautiful weaving and her introduction to Theo Moorman’s inlay technique has inspired me to explore the world of tapestry weaving in the near future.
There are also some examples hanging up on the walls of Ruthie’s Weaving Studio if you’d like to check out the technique up close.
Sources:
- Moorman, Theo. Weaving as an Art Form. Schiffer Publishing Ltd, 1975. ↩︎